As the new financial year dawns upon us, it is a time to reflect on the fashion mishaps of the past 12 months and spend those tax refunds on pieces that will never leave you cringing over your past outfit choices. Today, we are taking it right back to basics and discussing fit. More often than not, men overlook the unequivocal significance of fit. Not only does ill-fitting clothing make you feel uncomfortable, but it also detracts from the overall polish of your look. So keep reading to find out how to save money at the tailors by sharing a critical eye with the fitting-room mirror.
The shirt’s seam should sit at your shoulder bone, and if turning your head causes the collar to turn with it, the collar is too tight. You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably inside of your buttoned collar without it tightening against your skin. For sleeves, if you can see the details of your arms, then your shirt is too tight, however, the sleeves should not be so loose that they billow. When you bend your arm, your cuff should not move more than a few centimetres up your wrist. Cuffs should fit slightly looser than a watch and fall two centimetres from your wrist bone.
Dress Trousers & Chinos:
No trousers should need a belt to stay up on your hips and should fit comfortably on your waist. Pants should not be tight in the leg, but should also not billow. Aim for them to sit comfortably close to the leg without causing discomfort and avoid pleats, as they tend to create the illusion of excess weight around the stomach. Whilst the fabric at the end of the legs should not puddle, the front of your pants leg should have a slight break where it meets your shoes and the back should just reach the top of your shoe’s sole.
Regarding cut, opt for a slim or straight leg style and despite any 90s nostalgia, avoid any baggy or bootleg cuts. Jeans stretch with each wear (generally around half a size), so ensure that the waist is firm when trying it on in the store. Most designers will do three leg lengths- short, regular and long- which allows for greater flexibility and precision when selecting the correct length. Your jeans hem should always sit on top of your shoes with a slight break at the bottom. The simplest way to measure this is by simply taking off your shoes and having the jeans reach just above your heels. Then, once you put your footwear on, there will be a slight break of fabric that is long enough to cover all your socks (leave the Michael Jackson look for a costume party) without having any excess material clumping at the bottom.
Check the shoulders and chest first and make sure the jacket fits well in these areas, as these are the hardest to alter. The shoulder seams should rest at the corner of your shoulder, and the sleeves shouldn’t have indents below the seam. If you button your suit jacket and it pulls across your abdomen, making an “X” shape in the fabric, then your suit is too small. The same is true if there’s pulling between your shoulders. Your lapels should lie flat against the front panels and the second button from the bottom should sit just above your belly button. Further, the jacket must be long enough to cover your bottom and the cuffs of your shirt should protrude about a quarter to half an inch from the jacket’s sleeves when you’re standing with arms hanging by your side.